Saturday, July 29, 2006

Finally we met!

And finally it came to pass…the long anticipated meeting of four guys…guys who have been together since Class 4, who have seen many good and bad days together, who have broken rules and established new ones…guys who knew each other’s dark and bright side…guys who swore to stick together…until the end of Pre-University exam (1996) came, and they had to go their separate ways in their quest for higher learning, a journey each knew they had to take one fine day. We met last night at JNU campus. It was a special night for the four of us and even the weather seemed to arrange its elements to make it most enjoyable for us – the night was cool, the rain was drizzling and the air was wrapping us in a welcoming chill.


Sometime in middle of 1996, Basil went south to Pondicherry to join JIPMER (http://www.jipmer.edu/), Aditya went north to Delhi and found meaning in JNU (http://www.jnu.ac.in/), Vikram went to Mysore’s Central Food Technological Research Institute (http://www.cftri.com/) and I went to RNTMC in Udaipur (only the site, no web!).

As we hugged and greeted each other with so many words and gestures, it was hard to contain the excitement. At that moment we all wished another person was with us. He is Bibek Yumnam, the best artist we have known at school. He is based at Dehra Dun at the Wildlife Institute of India (
http://www.wii.gov.in/). We drove to Aditya's hostel and Vikram was kind enough to have bought a bottle of wine to celebrate the occasion. As we settled ourselves comfortably in Aditya's room, I persuaded Basil to narrate to all present some of his amazing 'ward stories'. Basil was meeting Vikram and Aditya for the first time after more than 10 years. Vikram and I met about 3 weeks ago in JNU along with Aditya, and that day we had visited a very dear teacher of ours, Mrs. Gopalakrishna, our favourite Biology teacher in school, who has now just settled in the capital.

So Basil, the great gynaecologist that he is, started telling us his ward stories, one at a time, and with a purposive pace, as we hung on to his every word. As you can see, his stories were truly awe inspiring for Vikram and Aditya. They didn't miss a word, and at times when the terminology in the stories became too 'medical' for them, Basil and I would explain the meaning in, as they say, 'layman's speech'.

So the night went along fine with great stories and wine. For those who are curious or interested to know about the 'ward stories', please catch hold of Basil and ask him. He is usually spotted in the labour room and OT (Operation Theatre) of AIIMS, though he also frequents Nescafe shop near AIIMS Hostel No. 7.

We ended up talking about good old school days, our teachers, our buddies in class and the moments we cherished the most. Then I started telling them about my first experience in the Dissection Hall (DH) of RNTMC, and how it felt like to see a cadaver on the dissection table. Aditya and Vikram, though interested they were in listening to our medical tales, were not quite certain about continuing to hear more about cadavers and dissections. I smile as I remember Aditya's facial expression when Basil and I told him about DH stories...poor chap. I wonder if he slept that night....

Anyway, Aditya was finally a very relieved man when the subject of discussion changed. We started pulling Vikram's legs on some remarks that he made, for Vikram by then, was a very 'high' man indeed, thanks to the drinks. Basil and I finally left JNU at 1:00 am.

We promised ourselves we will meet again on a weekend. It was a meeting well made. Cheers to us.

Tuesday, July 25, 2006

Udaipur Memories

UDAIPUR...UDAIPUR...Now where do I begin? Six years of my life was spent in this City of Lakes. Those 6 years in medical college have indeed brought many a change in my life. The memories are fresh still; those faces in class and those postings in the wards - like a slideshow the events roll in my mind as I write.

I joined the Rabindranath Tagore Medical College (RNTMC) in October 1996, almost 10 years ago. The RNT medical college was established in the year 1962 and received the Medical Council of India (MCI) recognition in 1966. It was named after the acclaimed Indian poet, playwright, novelist and Nobel Prize winner, Rabindra Nath Tagore, as an honour to this great man.
My batchmates from the North East were, Kara (Meghalaya), Franklin (Mizoram) and Duhawma (Mizoram). Kara was by far the most studious one from among us and she was one of those who scored the highest marks in class. We were of course very proud of her. When Kara got through the AIIMS entrance exam with flying colours, with a sense of pride we rejoiced. Now she is a Paediatrician and we wish her well.
Franklin, Dohawma and I adjusted well to hostel life within a few months, thanks to the support of our seniors and friends. Boys Hostel was one heck of an experience, and one that taught the three of us many of life's lessons.
We used to eat in one of the many 'Mess (es)' run by a particuler group. During our days at Udaipur, groupism was pretty strong among the students of the college. A Mess is similar to a 'canteen' but the management is by the students themselves. A particular group would have its own Mess and all students belonging to this group were expected to join the Mess. A student coming from Delhi or Jaipur would be in the DJ (Delhi-Jaipur) group, while those coming from other parts of Rajasthan, like Kota or Dholpur, would be in the Kota or DLP (Dholpur) group respectively.
One day we decided to open our own Mess as most of us from the North East have a GIT (gastro-intestinal tract) system that does not tolerate the heavy dose of spice in the food that we ate in other Mess (es). Franklin became the Manager and I assisted him in the accounts. Duhawma took the freelance role of a food and beverages consultant. We were all very happy with Duhawma when our Mess menu started having items like 'Bai' (the Mizo vegetable cocktail), 'chicken stew', 'egg curry', etc. Our cook, Hari Singh, picked up the cooking style that suited our taste buds very well. We would shower our appreciation on him and many of us also presented him with many gifts. After a few months of starting our own Mess, many of our batchmates started joining us as they found the food much to their liking.
Hari Singh was envied by many other cooks, not only because he commanded a knowledge and skill of many a dishes alien to them, but also because of the Nike shoes and the Adidas T-shirts that he sports. By the time we left Udaipur, Hari Singh's gifts included an array of branded T-shirts, denim shorts, Lotus 'floaters' and other items.
About other things...

Jason was one year our senior at RNTMC. It was rumoured in many corridors and gatherings that he could eat 1 kg of rice and 1 kg of meat alone. We found it hard to believe, until one day this picture that was taken by an unknown source, proved it to be true indeed.

Jason is a good friend currently working with the Meghalaya State Government in the Garo Hills.



On many occasions we would go for a group picnic to one of the many scenic locations in and around Udaipur. Udaipur being bordered by the Arravali ranges has some of the most beautiful lakes in Rajasthan.
This picture was taken by Franklin during one of those picnics. I had lush hair growing on my scalp then, and it was a beautiful day at Baddi lake. Some of us would come on bicycles and some on bikes. We would gather firewood and cook our meal, sing songs, sip beer, dance and have a jolly good time. In 1999 the lakes dried up due to the draught that swept across Rajasthan, and it broke our hearts. Thankfully by the time we left Udaipur, the rains has filled them up again.


Franklin was known more for his exploits in Yercaud than in Aizawl. For he was one who saw most of his growing up years at Monfort School, Yercaud. He would narrate with a passionate flair about his days at Monfort, and since he was good in telling stories, he always found a quick audience to listen to his tales.
I remember a day during a particularly hot June afternoon, when Frank (as I call him) and I were studying and preparing for our next paper in our 2nd MBBS pre-university exam. After a heavy dose of studying, we decided to chill. Frank pressed the play button of his tape recorder, and as Roxette's 'June Afternoon' blared from the speakers, I went to retrieve the beer bottles which we kept in the cooler facing the room. By evening, we were prepared for the next day's paper. I must mention that at times, studying well is a better tactic than stydying hard in MBBS, and one that has certainly helped us.
Franklin is now of course an IAS officer, after having cleared one of India's most difficult exams this year. I'm very proud of him.


Duhawma was always the energetic dancer at parties. I also call him 'Mercury boy' for this man was a Freddy Mercury fan. He had almost the entire collection of QUEEN and sang a new Queen song each day.
On some days and at unsuspecting moments, he would display random acts of happiness which I managed to catch here in this picture.
Now working with the Mizoram government, this dear friend has done well for himself. Few of the many things about Duhawma that I admire are his gentle nature, humility and sudden burst of the most contagious laughter I have ever heard.


In 1997 the Trident Oberoi hotel was opened for business in Udaipur, and fortunately for me, having close friends working in the hotel meant easy access to the hotel and its surroundings, including discounts at the restaurants. Behind me one can see the Monsoon Palace (barely visible here) that sits proudly on top of the mountain in the background. Oberoi now has another 5 star hotel called the Udaivillas running in Udaipur. It is located in the same area not too far from the Trident, but closer to the Pichola lake.

Tuesday, July 11, 2006

How do I love Thee?

"How do I love thee?", began, by far the most famous poem written by Elizabeth Barrett Browning and definitely with one of the most famous opening lines in poetry.


I chanced upon this lovely poetry while in Udaipur, where I completed my medical studies. It was one of those lazy Sundays when I would go to Franklin's room with the Times of India in my hand, to read the Sunday newspapers. Duhoma would join us, bringing the Hindustan Times. Franklin of course has the Indian Express. Franklin and Duhoma - my batchmates in R.N.T Medical College, Udaipur and my partners in crime. Having different newspapers was our ploy to ensure those lazy Sunday afternoons pass by without making us feel too bored. On one such Sunday afternoon, Duhoma came in holding a piece of paper in his hand which bore the impression of having been carefully torn from a newspaper. He showed us the poem by Elizabeth Barrett Browning, the wife of the famous English poet and playwright, Robert Browning (1812 – 1889).

I felt the poem radiates with the intense love Elizabaeth had for her husband. The choice of words she used spoke of her character and the values she believed in. If any lover were to present his or her beloved a gift, it should be this poem.

About Elizabeth Browning:

Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806 – 1861) was a member of the Barrett Family and one of the most respected poets of the Victorian era. Elizabeth Barrett was born on March 6, 1806 in Durham, England. She was the eldest of twelve children of an autocratic father who forbade his children to marry6. Elizabeth began writing at a very young age, publishing her first works while in her teens.


From an early age Elizabeth suffered a chronic lung ailment. She spent most of her time in a darkened room writing poety and many letters. The famous English poet Robert Browning admired her "Poems" (1844) so much that he wrote to her. They met, fell in love, and were secretly married in 1846. Soon after their marriage they ran away to Florence, Italy, where Elizabeth began a remarkable physical recovery.



In 1849, they had a son, Robert Wiedeman Barrett Browning. She increasingly took up contemporary issues including the Italian Nationalist cause, the abolition of slavery in the United States, and the position of women in Victorian society. Elizabeth died on June 29, 1861. Many critics agree that Elizabeth's best poems appear in Sonnets fromt he Portuguese, a series of 44 sonnets recording the growth of her love for Robert Browning.


Browning is generally considered the greatest of English poetesses. Her works are full of tender and delicate, but also of strong and deep, thought. Her own sufferings, combined with her moral and intellectual strength, made her the champion of the suffering and oppressed wherever she found them. Though not nearly the equal of her husband in force of intellect and the higher qualities of the poet, her works had, as might be expected on a comparison of their respective subjects and styles, a much earlier and wider acceptance with the general public.


Mrs. Browning was a woman of singular nobility and charm, and though not beautiful, was remarkably attractive. The English novelist and dramatist, Mary Russel Mitford thus describes her as a young woman: "A slight, delicate figure, with a shower of dark curls falling on each side of a most expressive face; large, tender eyes, richly fringed by dark eyelashes, and a smile like a sunbeam."


Browning's most famous work is 'Sonnets from the Portuguese', a collection of love sonnets. Sonnet number 43 from this collection is the the poem that formed a part of the history of Browning's own love-story.



How do I Love Thee

How do I love thee? Let me count the ways.
I love thee to the depth and breadth and height
My soul can reach, when feeling out of sight
For the ends of Being and ideal Grace.
I love thee to the level of everyday's
Most quiet need, by sun and candlelight.
I love thee freely, as men strive for Right;
I love thee purely, as they turn from Praise.
I love thee with the passion put to use
In my old griefs, and with my childhood's faith.
I love thee with a love I seemed to lose
With my lost saints,—I love thee with the breath,
Smiles, tears, of all my life!—and, if God choose,
I shall but love thee better after death.




For more information please see the links below:

Thursday, July 06, 2006

Chief Seattle

I read the Chief Seattle's great speech for the first time almost 3 years ago. It was at the dining table in TISS -Mumbai, when a friend gave me a page on which was printed the great speech. It was simply brilliant; the words seemed to have life; the Chief's words took my thoughts along a journey where he revealed his wisdom and showed the meaning of the harmony of man with 'mother' earth and the great importance to respect, protect and preserve our 'mother'.

Chief Seattle (1786 – 1866) was a leader of the Suquamish and Duwamish Native American tribes in what is now the state of Washington in the United States of America. He was a prominent figure among his people and pursued a path of accommodation to white settlers, and formed a personal relationship with doctor David Swinson "Doc" Maynard, an advocate of Native America rights. It was at Maynard's suggestion that Seattle, Washington was named after the Chief.

In 1851, Chief Seattle and other Native Indian tribes around Washington's Puget Sound, delivered what is considered to be one of the most beautiful and profound environmental statements ever made. Chief Seattle's speech was in response to a proposed treaty under which the Indians were persuaded to sell two million acres of land for $150,000."

The Speech:

How can you buy or sell the sky, the warmth of land? The idea is strange to us. If we do not own the freshness of the air and the sparkle of water how can you buy them? Every part of this earth is sacred to my people. Every shining pine needle, every sandy shore, every mist in the dark woods, every clearing and humming insect is holy in the memory and experience of my people. The sap, which courses through the trees, carries the memories of the red man.

The white man’s dead forget the country of their birth when they go to walk among the stars. Our dead never forget this beautiful earth, for it is the mother of the red man. We are part of the earth and it is part of us. The perfumed flowers are our sisters; the deer, the horse, the great eagle, these are our brothers. The rocky crests, the juices in the meadows, the body heat of the pony, and man – all belong to the same family.

So, when the Great Chief in Washington sends word that he wishes to buy our land, he asks much of us. The Great Chief sends word he will reserve us a place so that we can live comfortably to ourselves. He will be our father and we will be his children. So we will consider your offer to buy our land. But it will not be easy. For this land is sacred to us.

The shining water that move in the streams and rivers is not just water but the blood of our ancestors. If we sell you land, you must remember that it is sacred, and you must teach your children that it is sacred and that each ghostly reflection in the clear water of the lakes talks of events and memories in the life of my people. the water’s murmur is the voice of my father’s father.

The rivers are our brothers, they quench our thirst. The rivers carry our canoes, and feed our children. If we sell you our land, you must remember and teach your children that the rivers are our brothers and yours; and you must henceforth give the rivers the kindness you would give any brother.

We know that the white man does not understand our ways. One portion of the land is the same to him as the next, for he is a stranger who comes in the night and takes from the land whatever he needs. The earth is not his brother, but his enemy, and when he has conquered it he moves on. He leaves his father’s graves behind, and does not care. He kidnaps the earth from his children and he does not care. His father’s grave and his children’s birthright are forgotten. He treats his mother, the earth, and his brother, the sky, as things to be bought, plundered, sold like sheep or bright beads. His appetite will devour the earth and leave behind only a desert.

I do not know. Our ways are different from your ways. The sight of your cities pains the eyes of the red man. But perhaps it is because the red man is a savage and does not understand.

There is no quiet place in the white man’s cities. No place to hear the unfurling of leaves in spring, or the rustle of an insect’s wings. But perhaps it is because I am a savage and do not understand. The clatter only seems to insult our ears. And what is there to life if a man cannot hear the lonely cry of the whippoorwill or the arguments of the frogs around a pond at night? I am a red man and do not understand. The Indian prefers the soft sound of the wind darting over the face of a pond, and the smell of the wind itself cleansed by a mid-day rain or scented with the pinion pine.

The air is precious to the red man, for all things share the same breath –the beasts, the trees, the man; they all share the same breath. The white man does not seem to notice the air he breathes. Like a man dying for many days, he is numb to the stench. But if we sell you our land, you must remember that the air is precious to us, that the air shares its spirit with all the life it supports. The wind that gave our grandfather his first breath also receives his last sigh. And if we sell you our land, you must keep it apart and sacred, as a place where even the white man can go to taste the wind that is sweetened by the meadow’s flowers.

So we will consider your offer to buy our land. If we decide to accept, I will make one condition; the white man must treat the beasts of this land as his brothers. What is man without beasts? If all the beasts were gone, man would die from a great loneliness of spirit. For whatever happens to the beasts, soon happens to men. All things are connected.

You must teach your children that the ground beneath their feet is the ashes of our grandfather’s so that they will respect the land. Tell your children that the earth is rich with the lives of our kin. Teach your children what we have taught our children that the earth is our mother. Whatever befalls the earth befalls the sons of the earth. If men spit upon the ground, they spit upon themselves.

This we know; the earth does not belong to man; man belongs to the earth. This we know; all things are connected like the blood that unites one family. All things are connected; whatever befalls the earth befalls the sons of the earth. Man did not weave the web of life; he is merely a strand in it. Whatever he does to the web, he does to himself.

Even the white man, whose God walks and talks with him as friend to friend, cannot be exempt from the common destiny…We may be brothers after all. We shall see. One thing we know, which the white man may one day discovers – Our God is the same God. You may think now that you own him as you wish to own our land; but you cannot. He is the God of man, and His compassion is equal for the red and the white. This earth is precious to Him, and to harm the earth is to heap contempt on its creator. The white too shall pass; perhaps sooner than all other tribes. Contaminate your bed, and you will one night suffocate in your own waste.

But in your perishing you will shine brightly, fired by the strength of the God who brought you to this land and for some special purpose gave you dominion over the land and over the red man. That destiny is a mystery to us, for we do not understand. When the buffaloes are all slaughtered, the wild horses tamed, the secret corners of the forests heavy with the scent of many men and the view of the ripe hills blotted by talking vines…Where is the thicket? Gone! Where is the eagle? Gone! The end of living and the beginning of survival.

------------------------

A brief account of Chief Seattle's life:

The Chief Seattle was born around 1786 on Blake Island, Washington, and died in June 7, 1866, on the Suquamish reservation at Port Madison, Washington. His father, Schweabe, was a leader of the Suquamish tribe, and his mother was Scholitza of the Duwamish tribe.

Seattle earned his reputation at a young age as a leader and a warrior. He was very tall for a Puget Sound native at nearly six feet. He was also known as an orator, and his voice is said to have carried half a mile or more when he addressed an audience. He married well, taking wives from the village of Tola'ltu just southeast of Duwamish Head on Elliot Bay (now part of West Seattle). His first wife died after bearing a daughter. A second wife bore him sons and daughters. The most famous of his children was Princess Angeline. After the death of one of his sons, he sought and received baptism in the Roman Catholic Church, probably in 1848 near Olympia, Washington. His children were also baptized and raised in the faith, and his conversion marked his emergence as a leader seeking cooperation with incoming American settlers.

In 1912, a local sculptor, James Wehn created the statue of Chief Seattle. Myrtle Loughery, the chief’s great great grand-daughter unveiled it on Founders Day, November 13 1912. It was renovated in 1975, and today the statue presides over Tilikum Place, near the Seattle Centre. (In the background is the Seattle Center Space Needle)


"Man did not weave the web of life - he is merely a strand in it.Whatever he does to the web, he does to himself."

Chief Seattle, 1854


Link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chief_Seattle

Wednesday, July 05, 2006

Sohra

When I was young, every visit to Sohra was filled with a mixed of excitement and awe. While still on the way, I would visualize those massive green mountains rising from the deep valleys to flirt with the clouds. The land is characterized by sheer beauty and ruggedness that leave many a traveler awestruck and breathless.



I remember the times when we would occasionally go for family picnics to Sohra. The family car was an old Ambassador Mark-I then (MLS – 4748), and Dad would drive slowly along the narrow way, which cuts through the sides of the mountains. I usually sit at the back seat with my brother and sister and we would nervously look through the window towards the edge of the road that borders what we believed was the beginning of the deepest abyss there ever was, plunging into the depths of the unknown. Nevertheless we would all pretend that we were not so concerned about this…and when one of us finally decided to unmask the brave countenance and emit a terrified sigh (that was being held for so long) the remaining two would declare their courage and bravery by looking more intently into the depths and commenting in an unrestrained tone “Oh what a beautiful scene!”.

Sohra also known as Cherrapunjee is one of the world's wettest places where the average yearly rainfall of 450 inches (1143 cms). Mawsynram, a village about 30 kms west of Sohra, has recently earned the title of the world's wettest spot with an average annual rainfall of 467 inches (1186 cms). For those who are interested, Mt. Waialeale on the island of Kauai in Hawaii ia also among the top wettest places in the world with 460 inches (1168 cms) of rain per year. The rainfall on Mt. Waialeale is spread over 12 months, while Sohra gets almost all of its rain in the six monsoon months of April through September.



Sohra rain facts:

The terrain rises steeply from the India-Bangladesh border to Sohra, which sits at an elevation of 4,500 feet (1372 m). After passing over the Bangladesh Plains, the monsoon clouds hit Sohra with a vengeance. A world record 1,042 inches (2647 cm) of rain fell between August 1860 and July 1861. More recently, the year 1974 saw 967 inches of rain with an astounding 323 inches in just the month of July. That's 10 inches (25 cm) a day for an entire month! There is only one kind of downpour that comes to mind, the one that came when Noah's Ark was completed. On June 16, 1995, a record 62 inches of rain fell in just 24 hours.



I took a trek with my friends to the 'living root bridge', the much talked about spectacle, in December 2005. There are in fact quite a number of these root bridges that have formed along the supports constructed by the villagers over streams and rivers so that people can cross from one side to the other. The roots of the trees, which have grown above the ground would grow, entertwine and spread along the supports and ultimately form a living root bridge. The village we trekked to was Nongriat about 20 kms from Sohra. It took more than 2 hours to trek to the doubled storeyed living root bridge, and along the way, we crossed few root bridges and also one made of steel wires that was constructed by the government. The journey was very tiring indeed and every sinew in my body ached as we navigated through the rough unsuspecting terrain. But the sight that greeted us was worth those drops of prespiration that rained on the ground along the way. It was unimaginable that local knowledge and wisdom could make use of trees in this manner. It almost looked like a scene out of a 'Tarzon' comic. We stopped, absorbed the wonder, then clicked pictures by the dozens...until we heard one of our trekmates' call from the village ahead becknoning us to taste the locally made fruit juice which he was sipping from a mug. Then we all ran and ambushed him.

To discover Meghalaya and the rest of the North East India please do visits my friend James Perry's site below.

www.culturalpursuits.com